@sdusb1243
Everyone is loosing their shit over not bleeding properly when the timing cover and belt is just M.I.A.
@handsome4922
In my experiences, it's hardly been the master cylinder, but the brake booster check valve. It's amazing what one little plastic valve can do
@shawnd567
Clearly you didn't bleed your brakes because the fluid would have been clean in the master cylinder...
@michaelwill1337
If you change your brakes following a YouTube short, you will be responsible for the person you end up killing with your car-
@3brothersnick
That bench bleed step is so important!! 🙌
@richardcurtis2688
Almost right! You should bench bleed the new master and then bleed the brake lines once you install it.
@SnappyDrift
I'm more impressed with the bread flip 🤣
@immaturemushroom3591
Ummmm.. probably first... you know... change the brake fluid? It is clearly contaminated, and most likely the reason you have play in the brakes. Jumping straight to the master cylinder is like buying a whole new computer if the mouse stops working.
@GhostKamikazee
It can also be a vacuum leak, I replaced every part of my 85's brake system trying to solve this (everything but pads were original, so it needed it anyways) just to find out my cruise control had a vac leak and was causing the squishy brake pad. And if you're wondering why it ran fine with a vac leak, it's a CFI 302, the stupid computerized carb that eliminated most vac lines in exchange for wires and modules
@jamestravers9864
Quick tip for someone who has air in their brake lines. If the car doesn’t stop and the brake goes all the way to the floor, don’t push it all the way to floor, recognize that there’s no pressure and pump the brake quickly maybe twice or three times and then apply the brake. If you push the pedal all the way to the floor you are destroying your master cylinder.
@mikeznel6048
Don’t forget to check your flex lines. The rubber lines that connect to the caliber or brake cylinder. Those can go bad and give you a soft pedal.
@flaman2011
For those who don't know you should change your brake fluid every 60k miles or 2 yrs. Because it absorbs moisture out the air and breaks down like every other fluid
@MrNeutross
I hade this problem once. Bled the brakes 5 times and still spongy. Tried going the opposite way around from what the manufacturer recommended. The I tested just pressning the pedal as hard as I could multipel times while the engine was on and also did some hard breaking to engage the ABS. That fixed it!
@essexginge9167
Just change the brake fluid 🤦🏻♂️ it looked boiled and rotten
@mohammadyaqoob746
The brake fluid lookslike Fanta 😂
@gammaray0989
just skip bleeding the master, hook up the brake lines to the master, then bleed at the calipers. you'll probably get air in the system after removing the bleed kit. so its kinda redundant
@badazz2969
I'm not dissing on this but if you have an abs pump sometimes the pump needs bleed instead of a new Master cylinder most cars have an auto bleed feature on the abs pump that can only be induced via a scan tool
@microsoldering1
The spongy feeling is caused by moisture in the brake fluid, which is also why it was that color. All you needed to do was purge all the fluid and bleed the brakes to get rid of the moisture. No need to change the master
@douglasreid699
I had a vauxhall combo van, pretty much a corsa with box on the back, 90s model. I changed the brakes once snd when i bleed the brake system i had some pressure but not a great amount. Turns out when pumping the pedal, if you go al the way down it damages one of the seals in the master cylinder. Paid the mot garage to fix it as they told me and pressure was back to normal. So be careful pumping that pedal. Also sometimes just changing it for new fluid is all it needs.
@ayo_itz_shyy